Category Archives: Colombia Illustrated

06.27.13
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Spliffs and Sweets

Spliffs and sweets

They say our neighbourhood is only ever dangerous when there’s a “nacional” match at the nearby stadium.

Fans of Atletico Nacional, a Medellin football team, have unfortunately earned themselves a bit of a reputation here due to their behaviour on match days, particularly muggings. One friend of mine – who was robbed a whopping three times in the space of two weeks (hey Yannic!) – was targeted by nacional fans and now whenever I am alone and see one I cross the road or start walking in the other direction. I don’t know if this is necessary or not, but I’m a wuss and would rather not find out.

Many nacional fans can be spotted on match days selling chewing gum and sweets in order to raise a little cash to buy a ticket to the match. On the day depicted in this drawing I was walking along la 70 with Laura, Erick and Yan and it was swarming with people in green and white shirts. We had already bought a few bits and bobs from a few guys when this man approached us.

He asked us for some change and Erick handed over a couple of hundred pesos (less than 10p, I think). The dude seemed pretty pleased and in exchange offered us to choose a goody from his bag. The choice consisted of some individually-wrapped, hard-boiled sweets and a number of mini spliffs. We each took a hard-boiled sweet and thanked him very much.

05.01.13
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Bon voyage Benjy

Benjy boogies

Benjy boogies

Benjy had his last ever day working for Colombia Reports on Friday. We had cake to bid him farewell.

This is how I will remember him; sweaty and wasted and dancing like a sexy lady. We will miss you Benjy!

04.29.13
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Rainy Season

When it rains it pours

When it rains it pours

This picture is hardly exaggerated. I lived in Manchester and even I am astounded by the raging rainstorms we get here. It can be a beautiful sunny day and then suddenly the heavens descend and I’m left dodging raindrops in a breezy summer dress.

I’ll use yesterday as an example. We were on our way to go swimming in the lovely outdoor pool at estadio, however, as we were already late and the stadium was overrun by aggressive football fans (more to come on them) we decided to turn back. I was really struggling because it was scorching hot so I suggested ice cream –  the second best way to cool down.

Off we went for ice cream, yum yum yum, then on the way home we popped into the supermarket for a quick stock-up. When we went into the supermarket Medellin was all blue skies and wispy clouds. When we came out 20 minutes later it was like a scene from the bible (i.e. Noah’s ark). The rain was going HORIZONTAL and there were rivers streaming down the road. I had flip flops on and my feet were getting submerged by enormous puddles. Our flat was only a 2 minute walk away, but by the time I got home I was drenched. I might as well have been swimming.

This particular image shows an afternoon in the office. I was sitting at my computer a metre or two from the patio door and a violent storm was in full flow. I was getting splashed by rain and blown about by the wind despite being firmly within the building. I felt under attack, like the weather was out to get me! I was also very amused that the weather was INSIDE the building. I laughed and then moaned, as if there was no solution and then somebody did the obvious thing and closed the door. I hadn’t thought of doing that.

It’s not just rain – there’s also thunder and lightning on a daily basis! It’s really exciting! When it rains in England it’s just cold and inconvenient. When it rains here it’s an event. And the best thing is, you know it’ll pass quickly and as soon as it does you’ll be basking in the sunshine again.

As I type it has just started pissing it down. Thunder and lightning are featuring in a big way too – I only counted a couple of elephants between the flash and the grumble!

04.18.13
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Phone failure

My first call as a periodista

My first call as a periodista

This drawing illustrates my first attempt at making a call in Spanish to interview someone for an article. I can’t remember who I was trying to call now, but I do remember feeling disheartened.

Calling up strangers to probe them for information wasn’t something that felt natural, even in English, but by the time I managed to get through the adrenaline had set in and I was totally ready for it.

I introduced myself to the woman on the end of the phone, who said, “Hello? Hello?” and promptly hung up.

“Boo hoo,” I said.

Luckily I got over it fairly quickly and I realise now it was probably the shitty connection that failed, not my ability to communicate. Yes?

04.10.13
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No, we’re not sisters

Laura and me: definitely not sisters

Laura and me: definitely not sisters

I’ve lost track of how many Colombians have asked if Laura is my sister. It was particularly bad when we went to rural Cajamarca, but it happens here in Medellin too. I guess it’s because we’re both sort of pale. We don’t even have the same colour eyes or hair. I can’t imagine anyone at home ever assuming we are sisters.

It’s not just with Laura either. When I was out the other night a man kept on asking if my friend was my brother. I told him no. Then I told him again. And again. And finally I just agreed that he was indeed my brother.

Picture drawn 29/03/13

04.09.13
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Brotherly Love

Learning

Learning

We went to Cajamarca during Semana Santa to visit Yan and Erick’s family. Cajamarca is a tiny town in a valley surrounded by huge mountains with tonnes of banana trees.

One day we went up the mountain to a freezing cold waterfall. I went into the little pool in my undergarments as I had failed to bring swimming attire with me. It was extremely refreshing although I think I stood under it for a bit too long because I ended up with a headache. It was really powerful.

Erick and Jan’s younger sister and 3-year-old half brother joined us for the waterfall adventure and today’s picture shows a memory that sticks out in my mind. Erick’s brother is quite a character. Either extremely overexcited or throwing a complete wobbly. And very bossy at all times.

On the way down the mountain I carried him for a little while and the whole time he talked loudly in my ear about the many many girlfriends he has. He also kept on pointing at houses and saying he lived there. He even pointed at an old man and claimed it was his uncle. We challenged him to approach the old man, but he changed his mind after some dogs starting barking at him.

This drawing captures the moment very well. I just remember turning around and seeing little brother imitating big brother and looking up at him for approval. A perfect picture.

04.09.13
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Moving Day

5th floor, no lift

5th floor, no lift

A week after I arrived, Laura, Erick, Yan and I moved to a new apartment. For my first week we had been living in a two-bedroom, windowless flat, because it took so long to get all the papers in order to move into the new flat. (See “The Letter”)

So moving day came as a real relief, except for the fact that our flat is on the 5th floor and there is no lift in the building. This would have been fine if we were all students or temporary foreigners (like me) with only a few bags to lug up the stairs. But as it was, we had a washing machine, a sofa, two big chairs, a dining table, a television, a fridge, two mattresses, a big fan, crockery, cutlery and other miscellaneous items. Essentially everything you could possibly need to fill up an empty apartment had to be dragged up the stairs.

It was a sweaty day and we were all exhausted afterwards. But it was definitely worth it because our new flat features a whopping THREE bedrooms, a living room twice the size of the old one and of course, a balcony. And now here I am enjoying a refreshing breeze in the spacious living room.

Picture Drawn: 23/03/13