Taxis and pedis

Painted toes

I’m always getting told off in Colombia. They seem to be very good at giving a gentle scolding and I always end up feeling like a naughty child.

It happens a lot in taxis, especially at night. They’ll say to me: “What’s a mona [literal translation: monkey, used here to refer to blondes] like you doing out on your own at this time of night.”

They always catch me off-guard  and I tend to mumble something about having been at my friend’s house and now wanting to be at my house, hence being in a taxi. Then I get a lecture about how I should take more care because I’m such a blatant gringa and the baddies are waiting to pounce.

I got scolded again today. I went for a pedicure and once it was over the woman asked me if I’d brought my flip flops. I said no, I hadn’t and showed her my strappy sandals. She was clearly alarmed, but explained that they sell foamy cardboard flip flops for less than a pound. As far as I was concerned this was great news and totally resolved the very minor issue that had arisen.

She helped me into the flip flops to make sure I didn’t smudge her handy work. “Great, thanks!” I said naively. She still looked extremely concerned and told me I must go straight home (I didn’t) and then looked me in the eye and said, “Did you not think of this before you left home?”

What a fool I felt! The truth is, no! I had not thought about it. But I couldn’t bring myself to tell her this so I made up some bumbling lie about how I hadn’t planned to come to the salon and that it was just a super spontaneous, spur of the moment decision.

I left the salon and waddled along the pavementin the DIY flip flops that aren’t really fit for use.

Evo Morales Detained

(The Online News) South America on Wednesday morning looked on in disgust at the news that Bolivian President Evo Morales was being detained in Austria amid suspicions that Edward Snowden was on board his private jet.

Morales was on his way back to Bolivia from Moscow, when France, Portugal, Spain and Italy reportedly prevented the plane from using their airspace, prompting an unscheduled stop in Vienna. Read full story at The Online News

Spliffs and Sweets

Spliffs and sweets

They say our neighbourhood is only ever dangerous when there’s a “nacional” match at the nearby stadium.

Fans of Atletico Nacional, a Medellin football team, have unfortunately earned themselves a bit of a reputation here due to their behaviour on match days, particularly muggings. One friend of mine – who was robbed a whopping three times in the space of two weeks (hey Yannic!) – was targeted by nacional fans and now whenever I am alone and see one I cross the road or start walking in the other direction. I don’t know if this is necessary or not, but I’m a wuss and would rather not find out.

Many nacional fans can be spotted on match days selling chewing gum and sweets in order to raise a little cash to buy a ticket to the match. On the day depicted in this drawing I was walking along la 70 with Laura, Erick and Yan and it was swarming with people in green and white shirts. We had already bought a few bits and bobs from a few guys when this man approached us.

He asked us for some change and Erick handed over a couple of hundred pesos (less than 10p, I think). The dude seemed pretty pleased and in exchange offered us to choose a goody from his bag. The choice consisted of some individually-wrapped, hard-boiled sweets and a number of mini spliffs. We each took a hard-boiled sweet and thanked him very much.

We’re puppy people now

jubitaWe have become the most awful dog people. This morning it finally dawned on us that every single thing we do or say now revolves around our little puppy Juba. We’re worse than new mums who get out their iPhones and take you through piles of identical photos, complete with a running commentary.

How much is it possible to say about a dog? You would think not very much, however we seem to have developed the remarkable skill of being about to talk about the most mundane thing as if it were groundbreaking news.

Usually when humans discuss poo, for example, it’s in a crude and amusing way – it’s something you discuss amongst close friends for an easy laugh. But when we talk about Juba’s poos, it’s as if pooing were the most spectacular, magical thing in the world ever.

“How many poos did Juba do today?” Laura will ask.

Rather than replying with a straight-to-the-point “2”, I go all gooey and give intricate details of each and every aspect. Where we were, how it happened, appearance, consistency, etc. And after all this, we’ll both say something ridiculously moronic, like, “Ahhhhh, Juba! You’re SO CLEVER!”

Sometimes, when there’s a lull in conversation, we will just gaze at the puppy. Gaze at her, grinning and cooing. Sometimes she’ll be doing something vaguely cute, like chewing a bone or jumping around, but most of the time she is just sat there doing absolutely nothing and we find it the most fascinating thing on earth.

This morning we tried very hard to think about what else we had discussed in the past 24 hours and really struggled to come up with anything. The only thing we could actually recall talking about that didn’t somehow involve Juba was the video of Russell Brand making a scene on that American talk show. That also led onto a brief discussion about Edward Snowden and Bradley Manning.

I’d like to point out that we are both highly-educated critical thinkers, who take pride in discussing important and relevant themes that add to our awareness and understanding of the world we live in. What has happened to us? I think we’re going to have to impose a ban on doggy talk or at least limit it to a certain number of conversations a day.

She is so cute though.

Colombia’s peace talks take on FARC’s political participation

(Colombia Reports) Peace talks between Colombia’s government and rebel group FARC recommenced on Tuesday for the 10th round of discussions to address the second point on the agenda; post-conflict participation of FARC rebels in politics.

A disagreement has already emerged on the negotiating table, as a request by the FARC’s head representative, Ivan Marquez, to postpone the 2014 election by one year was rejected by the government negotiating team.

“Let us open a national debate on the urgency and the desirability of postponing the electoral timetable by a year,” Marquez told press. Read full story at Colombia Reports

US and Colombian jazz groups unite for Medellin festival

(Colombia Reports) Medellin is due to host a three-day jazz festival featuring US and Colombian university jazz orchestras for the fourth year running.

The University Jazz Festival, coordinated by language / culture institute Colombo Americano and the Medellin city government, will present three nights of concerts displaying “different interpretations of Jazz, from the classic to modern,” from three Colombia and three American jazz bands. Read full story at Colombia Reports

Colombians to replace Russian’s stolen bicycle

 (Colombia Reports) Citizens of Bogota are donating money to buy a replacement bicycle for a Russian tourist whose vehicle was stolen in Colombia’s capital, halfway through an epic trip from Mexico to Argentina.

Tourist Vladimir Kumov was hoping to reach Argentine capital Buenos Aires on two wheels, until thieves stole his bicycle while he was having a coffee in the Colombian capital last Wednesday. Read full story at Colombia Reports

Displacement rife on Colombia’s Pacific coast: Report

 (Colombia Reports) More than 36% of all forced displacement cases in Colombia take place on the Pacific coast, according to 2012 figures released on Friday by non-government human rights and displacement group Codhes.

Codhes recorded 92,596 cases of forced displacement on the Pacific coast last year and attributed the high level to the region’s strong presence of illegal armed groups, who exploit the strategic location for narco-trafficking and mining. Read full story at Colombia Reports.

Sexual attacks spur displacement in northwest Colombia: Reports

(Colombia Reports) Armed men have raped at least three women in the northwest of Colombia, forcing their families to flee their homes, local media reported on Friday.

The three families were allegedly forced to leave the neighborhood of La Esmeralda in the town of Apartado due to escalating violence, which began last Friday when armed men broke into their their homes, raped three and sexually assaulted one more. The men reportedly threatened to kill the victims if they spoke out about the crimes. Read full story at Colombia Reports

Bogota Colombia’s most competitive city: Study

(Colombia Reports) Bogota fought off competition from Medellin and Cali to secure the title of best city in Colombia for investment, researchers said Wednesday.

In the list compiled by the Bogota-based Rosario University and the Chilean company Business Intelligence, five Colombian cities gained top-30 positions in the regional ranking. Read full story at Colombia Reports